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If there was only one thing that made caravans and camper trailers more comfortable than tents for camping, it would be the ability to get a flat, level night's sleep, no matter how uneven, sloping or bumpy a campsite is.
Published
8 min read
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Published
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By Brendan Batty
Getting to sleep on a level surface is, maybe, the pinnacle of off-grid comfort. But it's not just sweet dreams that a level caravan helps. Other onboard systems rely on your caravan being flat when you’re parked up. Sinks, basins and showers drain better in a flat caravan and water tank gauges are more accurate.
Some fridges may not work on a slant, too. For example, many domestic three-way fridges have this note in their manuals: "If the refrigerator is operated when it is not level and the vehicle is not moving, liquid ammonia will accumulate in sections of the evaporator tubing. This will slow the circulation of hydrogen and ammonia gas, or in severe cases, completely block it, resulting in a loss of cooling." (12/240-volt fridges are more tolerant of being on an angle).
If your caravan or RV is fancy enough to have a slide-out, using it on an angle can put uneven stress on its mechanisms, causing premature wear or even failure. Improperly levelling your caravan or trailer can also place undue stress on its frame or chassis, so there's merit in getting it right.
Of course, there is plenty of stuff available to buy that'll make your life flatter at camp. Most large camping and caravanning stores carry the basics, but there are more specialised options on the market, too.
Levelling ramps All caravans and camper trailers should carry a set of levelling ramps - one for each axle (most come as a pack of two, so single axle trailers get a spare). Some ramps have a constant gradient so you can make minute adjustments. Others are 'stepped' so the wheel sits on a flat section, but you get less flexibility in where you can stop on the ramp. Look for a set that packs neatly and comes with wheel chocks to stop the van rolling off the ramps.
Levels
Fitting a small, dual-axis spirit level to the drawbar can make levelling much easier, but there are also good spirit level apps for your phone. Some people just bring a spirit level from home or a hardware store. There are also 'smart levellers', which often connect to your phone via Bluetooth or Wi-Fi and can tell you which corner or side of the van needs adjusting.
Stabilisers
Most modern caravans come fitted with some form of stabiliser legs. Often, they swing down and telescope out or wind down like a scissor jack. If your van isn't already fitted with them, they're available aftermarket, or you can buy standalone versions, but you'll need to find somewhere to store them. It's important to note that stabilisers are not for lifting, so you should only use them for stabilising, not levelling your trailer. Heavier-duty versions, such as the ARK XO Corner Steady, are suitable for lifting your van in certain configurations, allowing you to use them to aid in levelling.
Stabiliser bases
Especially if you do a lot of camping on soft surfaces like sand, mud, or plush grass, stabiliser legs and jockey wheels can slowly sink into the ground over time, causing your van or trailer to lean. Adding wider bases to these pressure points spreads the load, keeping you level for longer. Some people just use squares of plywood, or you can buy specially designed versions, often specially tailored to your steadies.
Jockey wheels Not all jockey wheels are created equally, and there's some merit in fitting one that's as flexible as possible. If you don't already have one or need an upgrade, get a jockey wheel with two points of adjustment so that the whole assembly can be lifted up and down, as well as the winding tube. That'll give you more flexibility on more uneven surfaces.
Auto-levelling systems If manually levelling your van is too much because of your mobility or other reasons, there are auto-levelling systems available, too. E&P Self Levelling, which has just been released in the UK, uses a hydraulic system and a centrally located gimbal to level your van at the press of a button. Other vans with adjustable height air suspension can be levelled by adjusting the airbags.
The basic process for levelling your van or trailer is simple. Level it side to side first, then front to back. You will probably develop your own style, but these are the common steps.
Begin by finding the most level spot you can conveniently put your caravan or trailer on. Most caravan ramps only have about 100mm of raising ability, and jockey wheels around 150-250mm, so if you can avoid as much uneven terrain as possible, life gets easier. Park your van about a levelling ramp-length away from where you want to be.
Sight your level
Using a spirit level, equivalent app or a visual check, work out which side of the caravan needs to lift and set out your ramps in front of or behind the wheels. A good place to put the level is across your draw bar or on the floor of your van at the door.
Set your ramps If you have a dual axle van, and your ramps fit between the wheels, you can place one in the gap. If not, line them up next to the wheels, then move the van forward or back, then shift the ramps into place where you want the wheels to end up. For single-axle vans, just place it in front of the wheel.
Drive on
With the ramps in place, drive your van slowly and carefully onto them. Have someone help by watching the level so they can tell you when to stop. If you have a dual axle van, you may need to drive one wheel all the way over the first ramp, so go slowly. Inch a bit further past that point so you can set your wheel chocks and then let the van or trailer settle onto them at the perfect spot. Chock the other side, too.
Now for the jockey wheel
With the van level side to side, it's as simple as winding the jockey wheel up or down to level out the caravan front to back. Presuming the slope isn't too extreme, it should only take a few seconds. If you reach the end of its range, you may need to hitch back up and adjust its secondary height setting to accommodate.
Stabilise Once you are level, you can now stabilise the van or trailer. To make your caravan or trailer even more stable, set the stabiliser legs at a slight angle away from the corners of the trailer. That way, they'll stop the backward and forward rocking that can sometimes occur if the legs are straight up and down. Apply just enough pressure to stop the wobble without lifting the van. If the ground is soft, or you'll be there a long time, consider using stabiliser leg plates to increase the footprint of each one.
If the ground is firm, you probably won't need to make any adjustments for the duration of your camping trip or while your van is in storage. If you are camping on softer ground, though, some adjustment might be needed if the stabilisers, jockey wheel or ramps have sunk into the ground. Hopefully it's as easy as a quick wind of a jockey wheel and stabilisers, though, as ramp adjustment probably means hitching back up.
Now that you're level, you can settle into camp and enjoy a good night's sleep, cold drinks and good times.
If you have to raise the door side of your van, using either ramps or the jockey wheel, you might need an extra step to get in and out.
It doesn't really matter whether you go forward or backward onto caravan ramps unless you have override brakes (you probably don't), but it's easier forwards. Setting your ramps so they oppose the natural slope of the ground can be helpful for stability, but going the other way might get those wheels a few centimetres higher, which might also be helpful.
Unless your stabiliser legs are specifically rated for lifting, don't use them to level your caravan. Some aren't even attached to the chassis, so you can warp your floor or frame if too much lift is applied. If they can be used to lift, only do so if they're in the straight up and down position.
If your stabilising legs are also lifting legs, lift your van or trailer gradually by winding a little on one leg at a time, so you avoid placing too much stress on just one corner of the trailer.
If you're using a cordless drill or impact driver to raise or lower your stabiliser legs, use a low setting and go easy, as many modern drills can apply enough torque to break things.
If you can use your air suspension to level the caravan, still follow the same general procedure - level side to side, then front to back. Ramps may still come in handy on very uneven ground.
If you have to adjust your jockey wheel while the stabilisers are down, you may need to back off on one end and extend out the other end to even out the pressure on them.
