On the road in New Zealand's deep south

By: Sharon Stephenson

If you like your scenery big and your mountains bigger, then the Otago region on New Zealand’s South Island won’t disappoint.

Located in the deep south of New Zealand’s South Island, Queenstown and its nearby siblings, Arrowtown and Wanaka, are pure Instagram bait.

With the three towns all within a relatively short drive of one another, hiring a car or campervan will give you easy access to the region’s many wonders and also provide a good taste of the incredible array of New Zealand experiences, from spectacular lakes and mountains, to adventure activities, snow skiing, wineries and great local cuisine.

The distances aren’t huge, so take your time on this drive and experience the breathtaking natural beauty. Eat a famous Fergburger on the shores of Lake Wakatipu, discover why everyone falls in love with Arrowtown’s cute colonial cottages and take a million photos of the aptly-named Remarkables, the dramatic mountain range that dips and rises across the Queenstown skyline like a roller-coaster.

There’s never a bad time to visit, with ski resorts open from late autumn through to early spring. But if snow sports aren’t your thing, there are plenty of summer-time activities, including visits to wineries and stunning walking trails. Accommodation ranges from backpacker lodges to five-star resorts, and there’s a lot of it around, but given the popularity of this area, it’s useful to book at peak times.

It doesn’t really matter whether you drive from Queenstown to Wanaka or vice versa - you’ll get the same spectacular views either way. But let’s assume you’ve just flown into Queenstown Airport and picked up your rental vehicle to start your trip with a few days in beautiful Queenstown.

Lake Wanaka at sunrise

Queenstown

You could plan an entire visit around this photogenic town on the banks of Lake Wakatipu. But in three or four days you can cover most of the major attractions.

It’s not for nothing Queenstown has earned a reputation as the adventure capital of the world – it’s where bungy jumping was invented by AJ Hackett.

But as well as throwing yourself off into the open space tethered by nothing but a rope, in Queenstown you can also go skydiving, zip-lining and even canyon swinging.

If you’re feeling particularly energetic and have a day to spare, then hike to the top of Ben Lomond, one of Queenstown’s highest peaks. The seven hours of hiking will be rewarded with spectacular panoramic views.

For those who fancy something a little easier, you can walk up Queenstown Hill and back again in two or three hours. Alternatively, follow the 45-minute trail to the top of Bob’s Peak and fill your camera’s memory card with photos of the snow-topped Remarkables and Lake Wakatipu, spread beneath you like a watery quilt.

There are, of course, lots of less strenuous ways to spend your time in Queenstown. Tee off at the Queenstown Golf Course (though you might spend more time looking at the surrounding scenery than the fairway), or stroll around the sun-kissed hills or shores of Lake Wakatipu.

Vintage steamship TSS Earnslaw on Lake Wakatipu

Then get on the lake with a cruise on the TSS Earnslaw. This 107-year-old Edwardian vintage steamer has been ferrying tourists across Lake Wakatipu for years and is a quintessential Queenstown experience. The return journey takes an hour and a bit and, if you’re lucky, you can join in on an oldtime sing-along on board.

By now, you’re probably feeling a little peckish, which is handy since Queenstown punches well above its weight when it comes to restaurants, cafes and bars. Try Yonder or Franks Eatery for tasty, healthy kai (food) or, if you prefer your meals with a side of scenery, then the Atlas Beer Cafe, on the edges of Lake Wakatipu, will deliver.

A pleasant half-hour drive from Queenstown are the Gibbston vineyards. Sandwiched between rugged schist mountains and the rocky Kawarau River gorge, it might seem an unlikely place to produce award-winning pinot noir wines (apparently, it’s got something to do with cold winters and hot, dry summers), but dozens of wineries are doing just that.

While you’re there, check out the delicious washed rind and sheep milk cheeses the area is known for, and then drive to the Kawarau Bridge where you can watch bungy jumpers leap into space.

Queenstown has long been popular with Australian skiers, drawn by its proximity to two ski-fields within a 45-minute drive – Coronet Peak and The Remarkables. Regular shuttle buses operate from the town centre, so leave the hire car at your accommodation and let someone else do the driving.

Wild lupin field along Rees River, Glenorchy

And you can’t leave Queenstown without driving to Glenorchy. There’s a reason this 45-minute journey, which takes in emerald lakes and bush-smothered hills, set against a backdrop of snowy mountains, has been called one of the most scenic in the world. Tip: allow more than 45 minutes, because you’ll want to pull over frequently to take photos.

Arrowtown

From Queenstown, take the scenic route north-east, which passes through ridiculously picturesque valleys and farmland, under Coronet Peak and past the swanky Millbrook Resort.

Twenty-five minutes later, pull into the historic village of Arrowtown.

This small-but-perfectly-formed settlement has a fascinating history, dating back to the 1800s when it was a hub for gold mining. The Lakes District Museum turns the spotlight on this period, when the streets ran with gold.

Check out the historic miner’s cottages, now repurposed as private residences, and visit the Chinese Village, where the huts of the Chinese miners drafted in to help with the gold rush, remain. If you’re so inspired, you can try your hand at gold panning.

They take the ‘local food movement’ thing seriously in Arrowtown, and there’s no shortage of cafes and eateries where you can try the local produce and wine. One of the best is the Asian-fusion restaurant, Fan-Tan, named after the board game Chinese miners brought to the Otago goldfields.

The menu ranges across Asia, with a Kiwi twist: pork and puha gyoza, rabbit and karengo wontons and a Buddha Bowl that will blow the cobwebs from your tastebuds.

Gold miners hut in the Chinese Settlement, Arrowtown

Wanaka

From Arrowtown, it’s a 50-minute drive over the magnificent Crown Range to the lakeside town of Wanaka. With the alpine backdrop of Mount Aspiring National Park, this town of 8000 is a little like Mary Poppins’ bag – more fits into its small dimensions than seems possible.

In winter, Wanaka is a snow-lover’s paradise, with skiers and snowboarders enjoying two world-class ski resorts within 40 minutes’ drive – Treble Cone Ski Area and the Cardrona Alpine Resort. Those seeking a more relaxed mountain pace can head to New Zealand’s only crosscountry ski area, Snow Farm.

The long, hot Central Otago summers are like catnip for lakeside campers and windsurfers, with boating of every form, including the jetboating that NZ is so well known for, taking place on Lake Wanaka and surrounding rivers.

In both winter and summer, Wanaka is popular with hikers, mountaineers and those who simply want to take a stroll around the surrounding countryside.

If you can, time your visit for the biennial Warbirds over Wanaka air show, which attracts numerous war aircraft from around the world. This three-day spectacular is a must for anyone with even a passing interest in aviation or history.

As with Queenstown and Arrowtown, the dining is first class here, with a big emphasis on local produce. Wanaka boasts award winning restaurants, wineries and breweries. Its artisan fare, alpine attractions and adventures, all wrapped up in one beautiful package, make it a perfect last stop on your deep south adventure.