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Six spots that capture the magic of coastal camping
There is nothing quite like unzipping the tent or camper at one of WA’s incredible beaches. Here are some top spots to try.
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There is nothing quite like unzipping the tent or camper at one of WA’s incredible beaches. Here are some top spots to try.
Published
8 min read
Text size
Published
Text size
By John Bormolini
There are plenty of options for camping in Western Australia. But for those who love the ocean, an attractive spot by the beach adds a lot of appeal.
With nearly 13,000km of mainland coastline, the choices of where to pitch that tent or camper trailer are incredibly varied. There are options from the enchanting south coast to the rugged north, from seaside caravan parks to off-grid beach camping. Each spot has its unique appeal but also its own challenges, but with preparation, all can offer that magical camping experience.
The western boundary of the sprawling Cape Arid National Park sits just on 100km east of Esperance. Only 25 kilometres further into the park lies the two most accessible campgrounds along this stunningly picturesque coast.
The Belinup and Yokinup Mia Mia campgrounds overlook the Thomas River estuary and western end of Yokinup Bay, both with a number of campsites.
The sites are non-bookable but both areas have sheltered gas barbecues and toilet blocks. The Belinup (Thomas River) campground has more trees forshade, whilst the Yokinup campground is set in amongst the beautiful low banksia woodland.
Camping fees are paid on site and no dogs or fires are allowed.
If camping and exploring, particularly with a 4WD, is your preference, then the Cape Arid region should be on the bucket list. The singular beauty of this part of the world on the far south coast is captivating.
These campsites are the perfect jumping-off point to explore other places of interest, right through to the eastern end at Israelite Bay and the fascinating ruins of the stone telegraph station, opened in 1867 and abandoned in 1917.
The beaches are pristine with lots of possibilities for long hikes. Surf fishing in this part of the world is excellent, with arguably the best salmon fishing in Australia. Being self-sufficient is essential, including carrying extra fuel and plenty of water.
For a relaxed, shady base to camp with a little more amenity, the sleepy coastal hollow of Peppermint Grove Beach is a great spot for a beachside camping getaway.
Around 200km from Perth, Peppy Beach, as it’s known, sits roughly halfway between Bunbury and Busselton, via Roberts Road (or Stirling Road) off the highway.
The park has sites to pitch the tent or camper trailer at a cost of $38 off peak and $58 during peak holiday season.
The small in-house shop, liquor store and camper’s kitchen add to the amenity with the broad, stunning beach just 350m away.
Dolphins often come to visit beach-goers and you can kayak the small Capel River estuary, snorkel or surf and take the 4WD onto the northern end of the beach.
Activities in the area include hiking through the Tuart forest, swinging from the trees at Forest Adventures and day trips through the Ferguson Valley, 30 minutes away.
Elsewhere, RAC members get discounts at RAC’s beachside parks, at beloved locations including Busselton, Esperance, Monkey Mia (pictured below), Cable Beach and Cervantes.
Around 11km north of Jurien Bay and a few kilometres west to the coast, this once secluded, mid-west hideaway has grown into a popular camping favourite.
The main campground has over 100 easily accessible sites but making a booking in advance via spacetoco.com is now mandatory.
More secluded coastal bushland spots to the north and the south of the main campground are also an option but only for fully self-sufficient 4WD campers. These are not clear, designated sites but offer greater separation.
Facilities are limited in the main campground and day-use area, with eco toilets and two shelters housing communal gas barbecues.
There is no drinking water or power, but generators are permitted for limited periods. Campers must remove their own rubbish and dispose of it at the large dump bins at the entry track to the reserve.
Enjoying the beach so close to your campsite is a big attraction but there’s also sandboarding on the large dunes to the south, fishing for tailor beyond the point at sunset or snorkelling the reef section.
The proximity to Jurien Bay is always useful if you need to restock your supplies during the stay.
Situated just inside Steep Point, the most westerly point of the Australian mainland, this remote destination requires careful planning and preparation before undertaking a camping trip.
Managed by the Department of Biodiversity, Conservation and Attractions, Shelter Bay has 16 sandy campsites set out amongst the dunes.
Advance bookings are essential and your trip planning should include a call to the Steep Point ranger to get the latest information. Costs are $15 per person per night, plus standard national park entry fees.
Access is only possible with a well-equipped 4WD: the drive in involves 110km of unsealed, corrugated road leading to a final 30km of soft sand tracks.
High vehicle clearance, carefully adjusted tyre pressures and experience with driving in sandy off-road conditions and dune climbs is essential. Recovery gear, extra fuel and water, vehicle spare parts, including tyres, and tools should all be on the packing list.
But the effort is rewarded with a fantastic wilderness location, overlooking South Passage and the southern end of Dirk Hartog Island. As a camping adventure, it will appeal to those seeking a more remote, challenging experience and environment.
It is definitively “off grid” and has no facilities other than a small number of no flush, pit toilets. Generators are permitted but dogs and fires are not.
Like most wild locations, the Steep Point area can be spectacular in its remote beauty and nature but also, at times, wildly windy and blazing hot. Camping set-ups need to be capable of handling the conditions for the time of year (April to September is generally regarded as the best time to go).
Aside from the remoteness and seclusion, the area has long been renowned for its great fishing and diving – key attractions for those camping in the area.
Just north of Carnarvon, the signposted Blowholes Road (sealed) leads to the coast and the beginning of a rough dirt road north across Quobba and then Gnaraloo stations.
It’s 130km of slow driving along the stretch to Red Bluff and Gnaraloo, traversing some of WA’s most rugged yet spectacular coastline. The turn-off to Gnaraloo’s Three Mile Camp leads to a basic but increasingly popular camping ground set against the stark red shoreline, overlooking stunning blue ocean.
Its popularity is closely linked to one of WA’s revered pastimes – surfing. Gnaraloo is regarded by many surfers as one of the best breaks in Australia.
It’s important for travellers to know that this coastal access does not continue further north beyond Gnaraloo Bay, so you will need to have enough fuel for the round trip back to Carnarvon.
The area offers four styles of camping: basic sites, “primo” sites, the Lagoon site and the Hilton. There are some simple facilities, including toilets and there is a small shop which sells basic grocery items, drinking water and even beer.
But complete self-sufficiency is the best way to plan for a stay.
If a surfboard is not your thing but a fishing rod is, there’s also world class angling on offer. Serious rock-hopping sports anglers will know this area well, as it’s synonymous with great shore-based fishing from the ledges and hotspots nearby and further south at Quobba.
Being aware of the conditions (especially the dangers of any swell) and being very well informed, is vital. Visitors should seek advice and heed the warnings of those experienced with the area.
The rugged beauty of this region, where semi-arid desert reaches the sea, is captivating and to be able to camp and enjoy nature and the amazing night skies is a real highlight.
Camping along the coast in the Pilbara can be more testing than in the southern areas, with its rockier headlands and mangroves adding to the challenges.
But Cleaverville Beach and its campground 40km east of Karratha is a great option for those venturing that far north.
All camping in the area is managed by the City of Karratha and falls into two distinct seasons.
Peak season runs from the beginning of May to the end of September, with a camping fee of $16 per day. Camping is free in the off-peak season in the warmer months of October to April.
Facilities are limited to some toilets and sullage disposal points, but there is no fresh water. In the cooler months the environment makes for great exploring, snorkelling, hill climbs, hiking and fishing or kayaking on Cleaverville Creek.
The warmer months are less comfortable but do compensate with the occasional barramundi from the creek tributaries as water temperatures rise.
There are a variety of sites, with some shady trees at the oldest. But the best advice is not to camp too close to the water’s edge: the midgies and sandflies that are never far from the mangroves will make life torturous for those that don’t cover up at sunrise or sunset or use enough repellent.
Enjoying a relaxing drink at camp while the sun sets over the Burrup Peninsula and Nickol Bay makes this spot worthy of a stop, especially if you are looking to break the long trip further north to Broome and the Kimberley.
And there are great historical spots to visit nearby, such as Roebourne, Cossack and Point Samson.
