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Unearthing Collie
Between the tall trees, winding trails and tranquil lakes, an interesting transition is taking place.
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7 min read
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Between the tall trees, winding trails and tranquil lakes, an interesting transition is taking place.
Published
7 min read
Text size
Published
Text size
An ideal day in Collie starts at The Wagon, a takeaway café fashioned from an old train carriage. The venue’s artisan present and industrial past — not to mention the men in high-vis queueing for their flat whites and cappuccinos — captures something of the sense of Collie being a town in transition. Once known only as a mining town, the area is now home to tree-changers and arty folk seeking a better life.
There is more of the town’s past to be found across the tracks at the Coalfields Museum, which contains a trove of local history from photos to old mining equipment. Directly opposite is the open air Steam Locomotive Museum, featuring a small collection of ancient trains that once worked the region’s rails (sadly, steam enthusiasts of all ages are discouraged from climbing up into their cabins).
Nearby is yet another museum, dedicated to Collie’s history beneath the surface. Located at the Collie Visitor Centre, the Underground Coal Mine Experience is a family-friendly glimpse of what life was like for miners back in the 1950s. Guided tours are available, meaning an ex-miner will be on hand to take you below ground and share some personal stories of working down the pit.
As well as samples of old equipment, there are a number of interactive exhibits including a treasure hunt and a simulated coal blast that — within safe limits — recreates the experience of detonating dynamite in a confined space. Tours need to be booked a fortnight ahead of your visit.
One thing that might come across during your tour is that, however fondly they might talk about the past, many people in Collie seem keen to embrace their future. The town centre reflects this move away from industry, with three shops particularly standing out as representatives of the new guard.
The first is Collie Providore, which has one of the finest selections of cheeses and artisan wares you’ll find in the region — including granola, oil, pickles, lavosh crackers, and chocolate-coated sandalwood nuts (highly recommended). Everything on its shelves has been sourced within 200km of Collie and there are coffees and toasties available, made using the ingredients in store, which can be eaten in the rear courtyard. Cheese-fiends may enjoy the “cheese your own adventure” samplers on offer, while others might be prefer to pack themselves a hamper of their favourite fine foods. Owner Rom is apparently famous locally as “the cheese lady.”
Retro Respection occupies a middle ground between past and present, selling an eclectic mix of genuine vintage items, reproductions and various novelty products that piqued the owners’ interests. There are rusty bits of old farming equipment and tools, general bric-a-brac, bits of mid-century furniture, secondhand books and vinyl, crockery, toys, soap and pretty much anything and everything else. What began as an online trading portal has become a bricks and mortar institution, known by locals as “that retro shop” — a vibe underlined by the old Civic Video sign that still adorns the shopfront.
Tucked away in a shed at the edge of the central heritage district, Collie Artists’ Den is proof of the town’s burgeoning arts community. Featuring the work of around 30 local artists, the shop features jewellery, pottery, sculpture, paintings, photography and all manner of handicrafts. Owner Karen says she has been overwhelmed by the response from Collie artists and puts the high quality of the ever-changing stock down to the inspiring nature of the surrounding country.
Certainly, there’s no denying the beauty and variety of the Collie region. Rich with forests and lakes, the area is ideal for exploration by car, foot or mountain bike.
If you haven’t brought your own wheels, bikes can be hired from the Kiosk at the Dam, situated at the carpark beside Wellington Dam. Collie is proud to be a “trails town”, with approximately 100km of bike trails either maintained and planned in the area. Download the Wambenger Trailsapp to find a trail suitable for your biking skills — there are a number of scenic routes beside the dam ideal for those freshly off their training wheels. More experienced riders might want to try the Collie to Darkin Rail Trail — a 61km, multi-day journey along a former train line.
To get out on the water, head to Minningup Pool (the exact spelling has been controversial, but was finalised by council edict back in 2021). This peaceful spot is equipped with a picnic area and benches after a recent upgrade, making it an idea place to settle in for a day of swimming, fishing or kayaking, with kayaks available to hire from Adventure Connections. For a longer stay, Honeymoon Pool is a shady campground in Wellington National Park, built on a nook in the Collie River, with a beautiful deck area, some logs for the kids to clamber along and rock pools to hop between.
With its gleaming azure waters, Black Diamond Lakeon a sunny day can make you feel like you’re not deep in mining country but rather thousands of miles away on a tropical island. It’s not surprising that it’s become a popular place for influencers to take a photo or three. The twist, of course, is that the lake owes its fantastical blue colouring to being an abandoned mine, decommissioned in the 1950s and subsequently filled with water. It’s a popular swimming spot for locals, but visitors might be put off by the danger signs that line the shore. Perils come in the shape of submerged objects, deep waters, amoebic meningitis and acidic waters that can trouble sensitive skin. Still — it looks beautiful!
To end the day, it’s worth circling back to Wellington Dam and watching the sun set across the Collie River Valley (be aware that access to the dam closes at 5pm sharp, so make sure you’re on the right side of the valley by then). It isn’t just the view from the dam that impresses, but the dam itself, which is decorated with a mural by artist Guido Van Helten. Inspired by stories and photographs from the town’s past and present, the mural is believed to be the world’s largest of its kind.
It’s also the first — or last, depending on your priorities — stop on the Collie Mural Trail, a outdoor gallery of 45 works from more than 30 Australian artists, many of them born and bred in the region. Highlights include Amok Island’s giant yabby on the side of Collie Senior High School, Jack Bromell’s massive Karda (goanna), and Shakey’s history of coal mining in the rear Woolworths car park. Again, there’s an appealing fusion of the arty and the industrial that speaks to Collie’s shifting identity.
There are plenty of food options in the town centre, but Barn-Zeez Burgers is a local fave for lunch. Everything on the hot menu is made in house, including their sauces. The most popular item is the Paddy Burger, but those with larger appetites are challenged to attempt the Big Dog, a monster of a burger usually accompanied by equally gargantuan loaded fries. The vanilla slice is no less generous and there are a few gluten-free options on offer.
Dinner can be found on the other side of the tracks at the Crown Hotel, which has had a funky overhaul in recent years. There’s a fine selection of local wines, cocktails, craft beers, and a menu that aims far above the usual pub fare. Saturday night is live music night, but the Crown tends to be busy throughout the week. It’s a great spot to people watch, as you’ll find every side of this changing town represented at the tables here, from miners still smeared with coal dust to gourmands sipping their cocktails.
