Esperance road trip guide

By: Fleur Bainger

There’s nowhere else like Esperance. Blindingly white sand so fine it squeaks. Water so crystal clear it seems photoshopped. An archipelago of islands winking from the ocean, roos on the sand, rare wildflowers in the scrub – the list goes on.

There are many reasons people drive for eight hours or more, sometimes in a day, sometimes over several, to get to this breathtaking spot, known as Kepa Kurl to the Wudjari Noongar people.

Yes, the drive is long, the town remote and the region isolated, but that’s also what makes it special. By turning the route into a road trip, it becomes an adventure in itself.

Happily, there are three different ways to get to Esperance (well, four if you count the most direct route, at 696km via Brookton, Wickepin, Lake King and Ravensthorpe, taking 7.5hrs – which isn’t much less than these other routes we recommend, that have far more to see). Here’s where to go and what to do along the way for a drive you’ll remember.

The shortest scenic route - 748km, 8hrs drive

Getting there and pit stops on the way

This road trip will see you motor inland via Pingelly, Wagin, Dumbleyung, Kukerin, Lake Grace, Newdegate, Lake King and Ravensthorpe, before arriving at Esperance.

Your first stop will be at the split hooves of Bart the Giant Ram, a ‘big thing’ that put Wagin on the map when it was built in 1985. After paying your respects to the mighty merino, head east to Dumbleyung. It too has a claim to fame: a vast, flat lake where pilot, Donald Campbell broke the world water speed record in 1964.

A replica of his hydroplane, the ‘bluebird’ - which reached 444.71kph - can be seen in town, along with a sculpture of Donald. Don’t miss lunch at the Dumbleyung Garden Café in the CRC building.

With a full belly, make tracks for Kukerin, home to Cambinata Yabbies, run by farmers Mary and Michael Nenke. Take a tour of the biggest yabby export business in Australia, seeing the crustaceans and their growing tanks up close. There are also good bushwalking trails, and the chance to see sections of the Rabbit Proof Fence.

Lake Grace is the next town on the list. After passing its salt encrusted lakes and pretty township, divert a 5min drive north to find WA’s most inland winery, Walker’s Hill Vineyard – it’s another top lunch spot, but you must book ahead.

Back on the main road, journey to Newdegate where you’ll see painted grain silos that are part of a regional silo art trail. Spot the western bearded dragon, the red-tailed phascogale and the malleefowl, splashed across the huge storage vessels.

Continue through Lake King to Ravensthorpe, where more silos embellished by banksias and honey possums – taking 31 days and 338 litres of paint to finish - make a dazzling sight. There’s a small playground along the main street opposite a coffee caravan, or try the excellent Bread and Butter Bar for thick bread toasted sandwiches. Esperance is now a 2hr, 190km drive away.

Things to do/places to visit

Once in Esperance, park at the foreshore, where the Coffee Cat van, juice bar and the neighbouring playground lead to the new 415m-long jetty. It has a fish cleaning station for fisherfolk and makes for an enjoyable stroll, offering a different perspective of the town.

Head to Esperance’s outskirts along the Great Ocean Drive. Follow it for 40km, stopping at a daisy chain of beaches, each one more beautiful than the next. Twilight Beach is great for families and its rocky islet features in many a happy snap.

Esperance is the departure point for Woody Island, the only isle in the archipelago with holiday accommodation and a campground. It is snake-free, ribboned with moderate hiking trails and its surrounding waters are home to 450 species of soft coral. Most arrive via ferry, but for eye-popping photography, take a 6min HeliSpirit helicopter ride across.

When to visit

For around Kukerin, November to March has the sunniest days, but for Esperance, while summer is warmer, it can also be windy. The best time is autumn, when winds becalm and temperatures are still pleasant: go between March and June.

How long to visit

Spend a night each in Kukerin and Ravensthorpe (or nearby Hopetoun) to break up the drive and explore.

The coastal route - 949km, 10hrs 15min drive

Getting there and pit stops on the way

This is an epic journey that sees you sweep through Albany on your way to Esperance. Start with a long, mostly straight stretch between Perth and Mt Barker, which takes about 4hr from A to B.

The country town is ringed by owner-run wineries and neighbours Porongurup National Park, where rocky outcrops are artfully stained by rain. Schedule 2hr to hike to the Granite Skywalk, a platform curling around boulders reaching a 670m peak.

Albany is only 40min drive away, home to the National Anzac Centre overlooking King George Sound. There are numerous easy walks through Albany Heritage Park, where the Centre is located; you might see wildflowers in spring and migrating whales can be spotted from elevated vantage points between June and October.

Down below is Middleton Bay, a sandy stretch of beach edged with cafes. For a more serious hike, drive just out of town to Bald Head Walk Trail, which traces the spine of Flinders Peninsula within Torndirrup National Park.

From Albany it’s a decent drive to Hopetoun, taking about 3hr and 40min. To break it up, you could swing by Bremer Bay, fit in an orca expedition (January to April), visit the microbrewery and stay a night or two, adding only one hour of drive time. Bremer Bay and Hopetoun edge the western and eastern sides of Fitzgerald River National Park respectively. The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve is a hotspot for rare wildflowers and untouched native bush. Hike the area early in the day with plenty of water, to manage rising temperatures and minimal shade.

On the Hopetoun side, the moderate uphill hike to the peak of East Mount Barren offers expansive views of the ocean and surrounding scrub. Cool off at Barrens Beach then return to town for a sweet treat from the bakery. Now it’s a 2hr drive to Esperance.

Things to do/places to visit

After exploring Esperance township, make tracks for Cape le Grand and that must-see hotspot, Lucky Bay. The carpark gets crowded these days, so once you’ve seen the sunbathing roos on the arctic white sand, try a lesser-visited beach such as Thistle Cove. Away from the coast, climb all 262m of Frenchman Peak allowing 2hr for the steep, 3km return trail. On your way back to Esperance, stop in at Lucky Bay brewery.

When to visit

Albany and Hopetoun are great for hiking and wildflower watching in spring, beach jaunts over summer and (for Albany) whale watching from late autumn through to October.

How long to visit

Spend a few nights in Albany to make the most of the Great Southern, and a couple in Hopetoun to enjoy the hikes and beaches. Consider adding a night or two at Bremer Bay.

The scenic inland loop - 756km, 8hrs 20min drive

Getting there and pit stops on the way

This trip rolls through Corrigin, Wave Rock and Ravensthorpe, with numerous sights to cut the engine at.

Start by driving to York, the oldest inland town in Western Australia. Pop into the Motor Museum, wander along the main street dotted with historic buildings and cross the bridge over the Avon River.

Next, drive to Corrigin and just before you reach town, pull over to see the dog cemetery that’s more than 50 years old. Anyone who’s ever had a pet will sense the love and heartache in this memorial block.

Going to Kulin looks like a bit of a diversion on the map, but it’s worth it. As you near town, you’ll start seeing tin sculptures on the side of the road, often in unusual positions with humorous signage.

This is the 15km-long Tin Horse Highway, made up of around 70 homemade creations – many of which deserve a happy snap. If you’re travelling with kids and it’s hot, you’ll also want to stop at Kulin’s public swimming pool, with an 18m-high waterslide that stretches for 182m.

Next on the itinerary is Hyden, a good place to stop for a feed before you visit its main attraction: Wave Rock. Its curving form is beautiful at all hours, but sunset is particularly special, making a good argument for staying the night. It’s also worth having a float in the Lake Magic gypsum-based salt pond at the Wave Rock Resort (open to non-guests). It’s like swimming in the Dead Sea.

Other sights include Hippo’s Yawn rock formation, Mulka’s Cave rock art site and the lace and miniature soldier museums. Then it’s time to drive through Lake King and on to Ravensthorpe, which hosts a huge Wildflower Show each September, reflective of the diversity of native blooms seen in the ranges surrounding the town. Finish the road trip in Esperance.

Things to do/places to visit

In Esperance, make time to see fragments of America's first space station, the NASA Skylab at the Museum Village. Join the queue to stock up on cinnamon buns and almond croissants at Bread Local (open Friday and Saturday only). Join an Aboriginal walking tour in nature with Dabungool Cultural Experiences – some are wheelchair accessible and dog-friendly.

Head out of town to see the curiosity that is the replica Stonehenge before stopping for lunch at the Condingup Tavern and driving to the sweeping beaches of Cape Arid National Park. There’s excellent basic bush campsites with a clean camp kitchen and drop toilets at Thomas River, giving you easy access to four-wheel driving beaches where you can fish, swim, bushwalk or just sit and wonder at the world.

When to visit

Wildflowers twinkle from August to October around Hyden and Wave Rock, while summer can be hot and winter cold and wet. Autumn is another pleasant time to go.

How long to visit

Consider spending a night or two at Hyden/Wave Rock, so you’ve got time to take in the sights without rushing.

Image credit: Tourism Western Australia