More than just wildflowers

Travel & Touring | WA Road Trips

7 July 2023 By: Julie Hosking

Not wild about wildflowers? Struggling to understand why anyone would design a getaway purely based on when these beauties are in bloom? Or maybe you’re just curious to discover what all the fuss is about.

WA’s Wildflower Country region might be the option you’ve been looking for.

The region north of Perth encompasses 11 local government areas, including Carnamah, Coorow, Dalwallinu, Dandaragan and Greater Geraldton and hosts some of the state’s most stunning wildflower displays.

But despite its well-earned moniker, there’s so much more to Wildflower Country than fabulous floral carpets.

The Midlands Route and the Wildflower Way

The two most popular wildflower road trips through this region are the Midlands Route and the Wildflower Way. It’s possible to do a shortened three-day itinerary on either route where you can see as little (or as much) of the flora as you like, along with the myriad other attractions across this vast slice of the state.

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Wildflower Country is as varied as the native blooms dotting the landscape, so if the thought of scouring the bush for donkey orchids or bush cauliflowers makes your eyes glaze over, don’t veer off track. This is a region where you can paddle in turquoise seas one day, roll across red dirt in a four-wheel drive the next, and always find something unexpected.

Far from the light pollution of the city, the Milky Way can also be admired in all its glittering glory in a region which has become renowned for its astrotourism. Take a warm jacket and blanket, and spend at least one night soaking up the overwhelming expanse overhead.

Accommodation options are varied – you can pitch a tent, park your caravan, enjoy a hosted farm stay, or check into a hotel, but be sure to book ahead during peak times (yes, that means wildflower season).

Wildflower Way

Day 1 - Perth to Moora, Great Northern Hwy

Distance: 174km (1hr 50min)

Head up the Great Northern Highway from Perth to Moora, the gateway to Wildflower Country. Take a breather in Bindoon, in the picturesque Chittering Valley, where the Bindoon Bakehaus and Café offers plenty of tempting homemade goodies (there’s even a mini-bakery to keep the kids happy).

Located on the banks of the Moore River, Moora is a charming stopover, with historical buildings, galleries and trails to explore. The Moora Town Walk is the best way to familiarise yourself with its attractions, including the Old Court House and the Pioneer Memorial Clock.

In Federation Park, admire the striking mural depicting the town’s agricultural heritage – one of many artworks created as part of the region’s Painted Roads project. The park is also home to a life-size bronze statue of a draught horse and a kelpie, both integral parts of Moora’s rural history. Explore even further on one of the many nature walks, including the Carnaby Cockatoo Interpretative Walk Trail.

Day 2 - Moora to Perenjori (via Watheroo and Dalwallinu)

Distance: 200km (2hr 10min)

About 50km north of Moora is Watheroo National Park, deep in Yued Country and home to Jingemia Cave, which lies in a band of rocky hills up to 2.5 billion years old. Leaving Moora via the Midlands Road will add another 30 minutes or so to your drive (plus any amount of time you choose to spend in the park) but it’s worth the detour.

Once mined for the phosphate-rich fertiliser guano, the cave is a distinctive part of the 44,000ha park. Climb the outcrops, see how many kangaroos and native birds you can spot, and enjoy a shady picnic.

From Jingemia Cave, head back east towards Dalwallinu, the first town along the Wildflower Way (which officially runs from Dalwallinu to Geraldton). Known for its magnificent wattle trees, celebrated with a festival in September, the yellow blooms are far from the only attention seekers.

The region is also known for its salt lakes and their incredible palette of colours. Find out what’s what at the Dalwallinu Discovery Centre, where you will no doubt be directed to attractions such as the Cailbro School, a tiny mudbrick time capsule built in 1939, and pretty Petrudor Rocks, a popular picnic spot.

As you head up Great Northern Highway and the Mullewa-Wubin Road towards Perenjori, swing into Wubin’s Heritage Wheat Bin Museum. Open daily from June to October (depending on volunteers), it’s a fascinating look at the area’s grain-growing history and includes an extensive collection of old machines, bikes and vintage cars.

Be sure to arrive in Perenjori for nightfall when this astrotourism destination – one of 14 WA towns so named by Astrotourism WA for their starry experiences – puts on a skyshow. The Salmons, just east of town, is one of the best vantage points to marvel at the magnificence above, as is the local golf course. There’s a range of places to stay as well, from the popular caravan park to farm stays.

Day 3 - Perenjori to Morawa (via Wubin-Mullewa Road)

Distance: 40km (25min)

Derived from the local Aboriginal word for waterhole, Perenjori took a big hit during Cyclone Seroja in 2021. Its hotel – originally built in 1919 – only recently reopened to guests but it’s far from the only place with a story to tell.

With its corrugated iron roof and porthole windows, the unusual looking St Joseph’s Church is one of 15 Mid West buildings designed by architect and Catholic priest John Hawes in the 1900s. The Perenjori People’s Pathway interpretative trail and the Pioneer Museum (open July to October) provide even more windows to the past.

As popular with birdwatchers as it is with wildflower enthusiasts who come for the fields of everlastings, the area also has plenty of walking and drive trails, including the Rothsay Heritage Trail. More adventurous four-wheel drivers can take the back way to Rothsay Mine (a gold mine with roots in the late 19th century) but check with the visitor centre first.

Another astrotourism town, Morawa is an easy drive from Perenjori and has its own unique drawcards, including Australia’s largest public display of historic windmills. Design buffs will spot another piece of John Hawes’ handiwork - the Tuscan-inspired Church of the Holy Cross.

If you fancy stretching your legs before the four-hour journey back to Perth, take a walk along the easy 3.6km Widimia Trail.

Midlands Route

Day 1 - Perth to Moora (via Indian Ocean Drive)

Distance: 200km (2hr 10min)

You can follow the suggestions for the Wildflower Way above to get to Moora, but if you fancy taking a different path, the Wheatbelt town lies between the natural spectacle of the Pinnacles and historic New Norcia.

Going via the Pinnacles and Nambung National Park, near Cervantes, will take you a little under two and a half hours heading north along Indian Ocean Drive, then east along Badgingarra and Dandaragan roads for another hour and a half to Moora. The park’s striking landscape is well worth the detour if you’ve never been.

Don’t have the time to spare? New Norcia is in the Avon Valley, just 130km up the Great Northern Highway from Perth, and is Australia’s only monastic town. Established in 1847 as a mission, it is still home to the Benedictine monks and has 28 heritage-listed buildings. After you’re done exploring, Moora is just another 50km north.

Day 2 - Moora to Coorow and Carnamah

Distance: 120km (1hr 15min)

From Moora, head 90km up The Midlands Road and into the tiny Mid West town of Coorow. Step back in time at the Koobabbie Precinct. Home to generations of the same farming family from 1906, its absorbing collection includes a two-cylinder steam engine.

Just 1km from town, walk or drive around Coorow Farm, bursting with everlastings and orchids, and discover the remains of the homestead of William and Sara Long. The couple raised sheep and horses on the property in the mid-1800s, shipping their horses to Singapore for use by the British forces.

Half an hour north lies Carnamah, another Mid West town with a rich history notably depicted in a series of painted road murals, including Drover’s Rest.

Drop by the Exchange, a converted mechanics garage that now serves as an art studio, gallery and visitor centre, and learn more about the heritage-listed buildings, including stone-built Macpherson Homestead.

Be sure to explore the area’s natural beauty, too. Tathra National Park is the spot for wildflowers, while the shimmering Yarra Yarra Lakes are a must, whether you head to a lookout near Carnamah or to Three Springs. The remnants of an ancient river, the 25km-long salt lake system changes colour with the seasons.

Day 3 – Carnamah to Three Springs and Mingenew

Distance: 75km (1hr)

Another astrotourism town, Three Springs takes its name from the watering holes that sustained early settlers and drovers. To the east of town, the awe-inspiring Pink Lakes blush brilliantly in the spring. They also happen to be the perfect spot to stargaze and photograph the incredible night sky. For a panoramic view of a local landmark, head to the Talc Mine Lookout. The second largest in the world, the mine produces more than 100,000 tonnes of talc each year.

Mingenew has many vantage points of its own, including Mingenew Hill and Depot Hill. After you’ve had your picture taken with Big Ears, Mingenew’s resident giant wheat sculpture, head up either hill with a picnic and then plot your sunset return (and a trip further along the Midlands Route, north to Mullewa and north-west to Geraldton). From there, head 30km north to Coalseam Conservation Park.

It’s hard to believe this glorious landscape was the site of the first mined coal deposit in WA. Exposed seams can still be seen here and there. There’s also a platform near the Irwin River overlooking the disused coal shaft. The main attraction these days, though, is mother nature and yes, that means wildflowers and lots of them.

For many, Coalseam is the holy grail of Wildflower Country, and you won’t be disappointed. Even flower cynics will struggle not to be smitten by the wildflowers on show here. Head off on one of the many walk trails that wind their way through the park then stop for a picnic.

After taking it all in, it’s time to point the car south for the 400km journey back to Perth. Even if you haven’t become a wildflower convert, at least now you’ll have some idea of what the fuss is all about.