Beyond the bovine statues: Cowaramup's a gourmet hotspot for foodies in the know

By: Myke Bartlett

Affectionately known as Cow Town, there’s no missing Cowaramup’s herd of bovine statues dotted around the main shopping strip. This former dairy community has become a gastronomic hotspot and a thriving artisanal hub, offering visitors everything from imaginative chocolates to saltwater gin.

Follow Myke Bartlett through Cowaramup as he savours the town's gourmet delights

It’s not so long since the best hungry travellers could expect to find in Cowaramup was a jaffle and an ice cream spider. Jaffles are still on offer from Red Feather Coffee (as is some excellent coffee), but the fillings — including chicken chipotle and mushroom truffle — are a little more exotic these days.

Culinary delights

This new inclination towards finer fare reaches its zenith at the Gourmet Food Merchant, which offers everything you might need for a posh picnic or a luxury weekend in the country. The place has the appealingly nostalgic aesthetic of an old-fashioned grocer.

The wooden shelves are packed with jars of locally made pickles, bottles of infused olive oils and an array of spicy sauces. You’ll find free-range eggs, fresh sourdough loaves and fridges of such delicious cheeses that making a selection could take some time. There are also charming souvenirs and pottery and, if you’re in a rush, takeaway food and coffees are available at the counter.

Cowaramup’s small footprint might suggest to passing drivers that there’s not much to see, but it’s actually a key selling point. Once you’ve parked, there’s no need to get back in the car to enjoy the sights — and delicacies — on offer, with everything tightly huddled around the main drag.

On one side of the merchant is Smithereens Café, a low-key spot for a tasty breakfast, brunch or lunch — whether your tastes run to local lamb or field mushrooms (gluten-free options are also available).

Sweet treats

On the other side is Candy Cow, an old-school sweet shop certain to exert a particular gravity on the younger members of your party. The sugary treats within include fudges, honeycomb, lollipops and all manner of boiled sweets. Everything is made on site, which means the kids can watch slabs of candy and chocolate being poured, baked and packaged before spending their pocket money.

If that’s not enough of a sugar fix, you’ll find a more innovative approach to chocolate across the road at Temper Temper. Chocolatier and co-founder Georgia Aughton comes from a gourmet restaurant background, which explains some of the surprising options on the menu here, whether it’s cauliflower and chilli or wasabi white chocolate.

If you’re not feeling experimental, there are plenty of old favourites too, with twists on everything from chocolate crackles to rocky road (varieties of the latter include “Wallcliffe Road” with banana, dates and macadamias and “Caves Road” with cookies and cream). The focus is very much on the local, with regional farms providing many of the improbable ingredients — the macadamias grown in Cowaramup itself.

Getting a coffee fix

Nestled inside the store is Two Cracks Coffee Roastery, which specialises in single origin-beans but also offers a nice line of hot snacks, including toasties, croissants and empanadas. If you prefer tea, walk a few steps further into the adjoining Seven Seas Teas and Spices.

Established by Cathy Horan-Anderson, a Cowaramup resident desperate for a good cuppa in a coffee-rich landscape, the shop feels like a temple to tea. There are teapots, tea towels, teaspoons, hand-knitted tea cosies and all manner of delightful nicknacks that celebrate the world’s favourite brew. The tea itself is top notch. Alongside the old favourites — Earl Grey and English Breakfast — are signature blend Billy Tea (which includes fragments of eucalyptus to evoke campfire memories) and a smoky Lapsang Souchoung.

On the other side of the highway, Millers Little Ice Cream Shop is a relatively recent arrival, although the Millers family have been in town for decades. Having traded dairy farming for ice cream making some years ago, the family have now left their property behind (the farm had become a tourist attraction complete with picnic tables) for a smaller cellar door on the high street. There’s still 40-plus flavours to choose from, supplemented by a newer range of nutty choices, and everything is still made nearby.

High street fashion and homewares

The town’s attractions aren’t entirely gastronomic, of course. High street fashion can be found in Reborn Code, which offers a selection of Australian designer brands and Wild Earth Trading Co, which specialises in modern spins on vintage and Bohemian style. Sticking with the town’s bovine theme, the black and white blotched livery of Cowaramup Pharmacy gives a hint of the sort of accessories and clothing you’ll find inside. Need a cow-patterned bum bag or beanie? You’re set.

More artistic souvenirs can be found at MuKau Giftware and Gallery. The downstairs shop has a carefully curated collection of homewares, soaps, books, trinkets and toys, while upstairs is a gallery exhibiting and selling prints and paintings from local artists. Inspired by a family trip around Australia, MuKau aims to celebrate our nation’s artistry, with a particular focus on the unique landscape and lifestyle of the South West.

Explore the surrounds

That landscape is also within easy reach of the town centre. About five minutes out of town is the Wadandi Track, a stretch of path that runs from Busselton to Augusta along the old railway track. Not all of the track is currently accessible, but the stretch from Cowaramup to Witchcliffe is ideal for ramblers and cyclists alike, streaking through vineyards, untouched wilderness and rocky outcrops.

A casual afternoon stroll won’t take you into the lush karri forests around Margaret River, but it will allow you to enjoy some fresh air among the sprawling farmland (and very possibly to walk off some ice cream and chocolate). You might even spot the purple-crowned lorikeet — or Cowara bird — that gives the town its name. Nearby, there’s a mini museum at the old Cowaramup Train Station, with photos and histories of the long-abandoned timber line.

Dining out

Back on the main street, evening dining options include a couple of unique drinking holes. The first is The West Winds Distillers, a gin distillery with a distinct nautical flavour. Housed in a custom-built warehouse of tin and timber, the design gives numerous nods to seafaring adventures. West Winds was established by a group of surfers whose love of the waves has seeped into their onshore endeavours – a key piece of equipment in the workshop is dubbed “Pugwash” after the picture book pirate.

The gins are infused with Australian botanical elements such as wild plum, bush tomato and lemon myrtle, but it’s one particular local ingredient that stands out — the Broadside Navy Strength Gin being made with a splash of Margaret River seawater. Tastings are available, but if you’re after something more substantial, the food menu has a fusion of the regional and the far-flung, offering a range that takes in the traditional Cow Town Beef Burger and Malaysian specialities, including nasi goreng.

The Servo Taphouse also has a tasty line in pub fare (the fish tacos are recommended, as are the bacon, cheese and gravy delights of the poutine) and a similar broad geographical reach to the beer on tap. The common thread is craft beer, whether from the local Cowaramup Brewery (choice porters, pilsners and hefeweizens) or rare British ales such as Old Peculiar. Three hand-pull taps are home to the British brews, with a rotating cast of local and international beers hosted on the other 12 taps.

Housed in the town’s former petrol station, the Taphouse has quickly become a favourite with locals and blow-ins alike, attracting a younger crowd as the night draws in. It’s also a great place to sample the local music scene, with bands from the South West taking to the stage most Saturdays.

While there’s no need to stray far from the high street, Cowaramup can be a handy weekend base from which to explore the wider area. You’re deep in winery country here, but the coast, caves and other tourist hotspots are within easy distance. But whether you’re here for the day, the weekend or just an hour or so, one thing is certain — this is one small town where you’ll always find a reason to come back again soon.