Where retro meets renewable: A wander through the charming town of Witchcliffe

By: Myke Bartlett

It’s hard to think of a better entry point to Witchcliffe than the Amaze’n hedge maze. Occupying the threshold between Margaret River and its nearest neighbour, this labyrinth and its grounds are a magical, slightly fantastical space where old ways and things are put to new purpose.

Follow Myke Bartlett as he explores the south west town of Witchcliffe

The maze itself — grown and maintained by Russell and Cathy McKnight — is a lush space you won’t mind getting lost in for half an hour or so, while its surroundings are packed with found object sculptures, games and puzzles, and even a slightly spooky stone circle.

This sense of a forgotten world feels very Witchcliffe. It isn’t too long since there wasn’t more to the place than a petrol station and a general store, but in recent years the town has found a new identity as a vintage precinct. Its Bussell Highway main strip is home to an improbable number of second-hand stores and, every November, tourists flood in for the Witchcliffe Vintage Fair.

Old-fashioned meets eco-friendly

There’s no denying that part of Amaze’n’s appeal is how delightfully old fashioned it is. Parents tired of fighting to keep their kids off screens will appreciate the more traditional activities on offer — there are playgrounds and mini golf to keep little ones busy once they’ve escaped the maze — as well as a menu featuring the country classic Devonshire teas (topped with delicious homemade jams).

But Witchcliffe is also making a bid for being the most progressive of Margaret River’s satellite towns, with its centre being expanded by an eco village defined by its striking and sustainable homes and what appear to be the fastest EV street chargers (powered by solar, naturally) that you’ll find south of Bunbury.

Second-hand stores galore

Of course, there’s a similar sustainable angle to the town’s second-hand stores, each of which offers a chance to adopt a preloved treasure. The Flying Wardrobe is the longest-established of these shops and, for those of a certain age, it can feel less like a retro bazaar and more like a museum of things you had forgotten from your childhood. The shelves are packed with toys from the 80s and 90s and old books and comics, alongside vintage clothing patterns, hardware and cutlery (ideal if you’ve forgotten to bring some camping).

Jo Bregazzi, who runs The Tiny Store with her husband Geoff, says that local teens appreciate the town’s secondhand vibe as much as tourists do. Budding style gurus wanting something more adventurous than fast fashion are happy to make the 10-minute trip south of Margaret River in pursuit of a unique outfit. Certainly, this is the sort of shop where — no matter what you’ve come in search of — you’re likely to find something that has been waiting for you. Something that you may not have known existed but now cannot leave without.

Jo’s passion for the pre-loved should be obvious to any visitor and, given she is the founder of the aforementioned Witchcliffe Vintage Fair, it’s fair to say, she deserves much of the credit for the town’s new status as a retro hotspot. Hidden away in a lane just off the highway, The Tiny Store is a cosy and carefully curated space where restored antiques jostle for space alongside trinkets, books and well-chosen CDs and vinyl.

Back on the high street, there’s more music to be found at Beachhead Records. Don’t be fooled by the modest exterior. This might just be one of the state’s best record shops, with a selection of new and old titles many big city outlets would envy. Collectors after classic rock, soul or — less predictably — train sound effects, should consider building a road trip around browsing these shelves.

Wining and dining in Witchy

It isn’t all about the vintage, of course. Witchy Pies has already inspired a few long journeys for celiacs in search of a gluten-free pie. This pastry-based pit-stop changed hands recently but continues to offer a reassuringly wide selection of classic country fare, from pies and pasties (both wheat-based and gluten free) to the ubiquitous vanilla slice.

A short distance down the road, YARDBYRD café is ideal for a quick caffeine fix — not to mention breakfast, brunch or afternoon tea. The decor is quaint and unpretentious, with a street-facing courtyard that makes it ideal for a family feed. The muffins come highly recommended.

Witchcliffe, like many other country towns, has long been a destination for those seeking a tree change. While there are definite signs of gentrification as the population booms (McHenry Hohnen Vintners are in the process of building a new cellar door and wine bar on the highway), there are still appealing glimpses of its hippy past.

Coastal inspiration

Gift shop Margaret River Candle Co offers a colourful riot of jewels, dreamcatchers and, of course, handmade beeswax candles. There’s a strong focus on locally made giftware and furniture crafted from recycled timbers, such as old wine barrels. The standout items are a beautiful range of sea urchin candles — stunning and scented souvenirs that serve as a reminder that the town is only 10-15 minutes east from the popular Redgate Beach.

Nestled inside Leeuwin-Naturaliste National Park, Redgate is popular with surfers and snorkelers alike, while children can enjoy clambering over the rust-coloured rocks. It’s not always the best beach for a casual swim, as the water tends to be shallow between shore and thumping breakers, and it can be perilous, featuring strong rips. That said, it’s worth a detour if you’re ready to swap window shopping for rock pool browsing.

Australia’s largest private shell collection

Coastal treasures are the theme of one of Witchcliffe’s more unusual attractions — the Bellview Shell Collection. Open during school holidays (and occasionally on request), this unique museum is housed in what appears to be a very ordinary suburban brick house. Stepping through the doors, however, is like entering a cross between a TARDIS and Aladdin’s Cave, with half of the house given over to an extraordinary collection of shells and sea creatures numbering in the tens of thousands.

The museum is the life’s work of beachcomber Peter Ignoti who, with help from wife Kath, has built and maintained Australia’s largest private collection of shells. It’s hard to convey just how impressive and inspiring the displays are, assembled from local finds and pieces traded with overseas collectors, arranged by kind and size and beautifully polished. The stories behind the museum are just as engaging — Kath will gladly share how much effort has gone into supporting Peter’s passion for his hobby over several decades.

Whatever your own passion, The Witch and the Windmill should have something for you. This multi-purpose store was once Darnell’s General Store but has been renovated into a beautiful structure of recycled timber and steel that gives a nod to the town’s vintage and arty leanings. You’ll find no groceries, but there is a book shop and art gallery, an espresso bar, a herb and spice club, pottery studio and winemaker.

From the top, The Marritree hosts a beautiful selection of fiction and art books, as well as poets, local musos and writing workshops. Witchy Brews occupies a tiny corner and offers alfresco coffees, cakes and doughnuts. The Shed has a beautifully scented range of herbs, spices and select local goods (including arts and crafts).

Hidden at the side in an old railway carriage, Rae Collected exhibits the work of local potter Ella Rae Stubbs, with stoneware plates, mugs and incense burners for sale. On the other side of the building, Amato Vino offers an unpredictable array of lesser-tasted wines alongside cheeses from the area, including a range of sheep cheeses from Cambray in Nannup.

Right at the back, Dear Darnell’s feels like the perfect place to end a day in Witchcliffe. A recent addition to the Windmill, the restaurant is continuing to expand, creating room for families to enjoy woodfired pizzas (and for parents to sample the house lager). The menu features some old favourites alongside more edgy choices likely to appeal to the young crowd propping up the bar in the evenings.

Indeed, there’s a sense that Darnell’s agricultural steampunk decor, a fusion of classic architecture and found objects, seems to capture the town’s unique spirit. In looking to the past, the owners — like so many of Witchcliffe’s citizens — have found something that feels very new.