Augusta: Old-school bites, natural wonders and a lighthouse at the end of the world

Follow Myke Bartlett as he explores the top things to see and do in Augusta

If you’re wanting to understand the appeal of Augusta, Paul Sofilas is your man. For the past 25 years, Paul has been the caretaker at the Cape Leeuwin lighthouse, living onsite in one of the original keeper cottages. The lighthouse has been fully automated for longer than that, but Paul is still needed to keep an eye on the iconic heritage site — and, of course, to lead thousands of tourists up and down its winding stairs.

Paul says he enjoys having the world come to him and has never been tempted to move off his precarious spot on the edge of the world. Certainly, no site better captures the drama and variety Augusta offers, as two oceans converge around an ever-changing coastline. Visit at the right time of the year and you can watch whales from the lighthouse balcony. Some days the seas sparkle hypnotically. On other days, you’ll feel the lighthouse sway — as it was designed to — in gale-force winds.

Augusta does — in the best possible sense — feel like the end of the world. While Margaret River draws the big crowds, a smaller number make the extra 45-minute drive to the bottom of the cape. But there are plenty of reasons to make the effort to visit, for either a day trip or a longer stay.

On the menu

In keeping with its end-of-the-road location, the main stretch still has an appealing, unvarnished feel. There are a couple of newer cafés and boutiques, but the traditional Augusta Bakery remains a firm favourite. Whatever time of the day you visit, you’ll find a staggering range of savoury pies and sweet baked goods. This old-school fare has been supplemented by Vietnamese treats, including Banh Mi. The bakery remains as popular with locals as it is with visitors, meaning you can face a long lunchtime queue during peak season.

If you’re after a sit-down meal, it’s a short detour from the main strip to The Colour Patch. This Augusta institution is a great spot for breakfast, lunch, or dinner but, as good as the food is, the café is all about the location. Across the road is Hardy Inlet, where the Blackwood River completes its 300km journey to the Southern Ocean.

Natural wonders

This meeting of waters is usually a pretty sedate affair, with the stretch upriver being popular with fishers, kayakers, and stand-up paddleboarders. It’s easy to get out on the water from Ellis St Jetty, just down the road from the Augusta Hotel, and there are a few different options for renting watercraft of all shapes and sizes. It’s certainly the quickest way to get across the river to East Augusta, and the local waterfowl are pretty patient with birdwatchers creeping closer in canoes.

It’s hard to get far away from the water in Augusta. Drive, walk, or cycle down Albany Terrace from the north end and — after a short stretch of karri trees — you’ll get a beautiful view of the inlet and Flinder’s Bay as you wind towards the original settlement.

While the wind and waves can be fierce across the bay, Granny’s Pool offers a sheltered spot for swimming or snorkelling. There are trees for shade and, just around the corner, a small pier and playground ideal for smaller swimmers or budding crab hunters.

Augusta can also be a great spot to set off for excursions to familiar tourist spots, including Jewel Cave or Hamelin Bay. The latter, about a 25-minute drive away, is famous for its stingrays, although they don’t always appear on demand. Even if the wildlife doesn’t play ball, the stretch of white sand along the bay makes a picturesque spot for an afternoon walk.

After a day in, on, or around the water, it feels an obvious choice to finish the day at Augusta Fish and Chips. Run by Suong Tran, whose sister Mai owns the bakery, it’s a family-friendly restaurant where the fish tastes fresh, the chips are crunchy, and the portions are generous. Eat in, or if it’s a warm evening, take your paper-wrapped parcels and wander the short distance downhill to picnic on the shores of the Blackwood.