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Spend a little time in Nannup and you’ll soon get a sense that the people there like to do things a bit differently.
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Tucked away about an hour from anywhere else, Nannup is less a town people drive through and more one to drive around. And yet this isolation has helped the former timber town develop a unique character and, perhaps, also attract a few unique characters along the way.
Driving in from Busselton along Vasse Highway, you’ll get a taste of this difference before you even hit town. Cambray Cheese is a dairy unlike any you’ll find elsewhere in the state. Opened in 2005 by the Wilde family (whose son Tom is now chief cheesemaker), this prize-winning farm specialises in soft and hard cheeses made from sheep’s milk (although they have also expanded into cow’s milk products.)
Sheep’s milk is hard-won, with ewes producing around a tenth of that made by their bovine sisters. After tasting some of the cheeses on offer, you’ll soon agree it’s worth the effort. Favourites include Farmhouse Gold, a Manchego and a very melty Ashdown. (The bottled sheep’s milk is also worth sampling, allegedly easier on the digestion and surprisingly sweet.)
Sheep cheeses are seasonal, so it’s best to visit between September and March, although cow’s cheese is available to sample all year round. There’s also a great little shop packed with local crafts and delicacies including pickles, preserves and cheeseboards. Bring an esky — or buy a fridge pack onsite — to ensure your takeaway cheeses make it home safe (and not too ripe).
Nannup’s environs are rich with such unexpected delights. Chestnut Brae, a short drive on the other side of town, is a farm dedicated to that wintriest of nut. Chestnut season is March to May (the farm produces around 10 tonne of chestnuts every year), but there is more to the farm than nut-picking, with some amazing gardens and orchards to explore and plenty of lambs, pigs, and birds to keep the kids happy.
There is also a small farm shop that offers an impressive array of chestnut produce including chestnut tea, honey, and barbeque sauce, alongside an award-winning chestnut ale. It’s also a great place to spend a couple of nights if you fancy a farm stay, with a sweet cottage allowing visitors to wake up to the sounds of the countryside.
The main animal attraction at nearby Lavender Farm is Dottie the dog, who may well affectionately pester friendly visitors for attention and tummy rubs while they wait for a serve of lavender scones. Open Friday to Sunday from 10am to 4pm (with additional days for school holidays), this is an ideal spot for morning or afternoon tea. Sit on the sunny veranda surrounded by beautifully curated gardens and sip some lavender tea over lavender biscuits, followed by a cheeky serve of lavender ice cream.
On first driving into town, it’s hard to miss Nannup Brewing Co. This recent addition to the neighbourhood has fast become a key social hub, with locals and blow-ins alike enjoying the relaxed vibe, hearty menu (the Bridge Burger with loaded fries is a fave) and craft beers on tap. Even canine punters are welcome, with the kitchen offering a cooked dinner for dogs. During the winter, the main bar is wonderfully cosy, but during warmer weather customers prefer to make the most of the expansive decking, which allows a view of the Blackwood River. Weekends tend to bring live music, from local songsmiths to touring acts.
There’s often music next door too, at Soapbox. Although handmade soaps are his core business, owner Simon is likely to play you a song or two — on piano or guitar — while you shop for foot scrubs, body butter, face cream, aftershaves of massage oil. Simon and his wife make everything themselves from natural ingredients (hemp features heavily). Next door again is an antiques store with a good selection of art and history books, but its hours can be irregular as the octogenarian owner is often away running marathons in far-flung places.
Nannup is a small town so most of its attractions are to be found within easy walking distance. Start at the Brewing Company and end five minutes later at the Community Op Shop (highly recommended) and you will have covered the best of the high street.
Pickle and O is a cosy little café with a leafy garden out the back, where lunches are as tasty as they are healthy, as are the pots of chai tea. Highlights include fresh salads and the gluten free lemon cheesecake.
Directly next door, A Taste of Nannup and Beyond offers local arts, crafts, trinkets and delicacies. Across the road, the Leanne White Gallery (one of three galleries on the high street) sells paintings and books by the West Australian author and illustrator. A bit further up, Bonnet & Entrance Eco Store sells quirky and environmentally-friendly gifts that include jewellery, plants, ornaments, crockery and furniture. There’s also a strong focus on reused and secondhand items, with an appealing selection of vintage clothes.
Neighbouring the Nannup Village Green — which is home to a quaint, well-attended timber chapel — is Nanna’s Pantry. Run by local councillor Tim and his wife, this pantry is part-café, part-whole foods outlet. Around 80 per cent of the food stuffs stocked are local to the South West, including a delicious range of jams and pickles (most of which are available for tasting). The menu has a generous — and well-priced — selection of gluten-free items including bagels and a homemade teacake. The Aztec cacao, which is a rich and ancient form of hot chocolate, is highly recommended, particularly if made with coconut milk.
If you’re still hungry and willing to wander away from the high street, Chiang Mai Thai serves authentic Thai dinners every Thursday to Saturday from 4.30pm. Being a food van, its address isn’t exactly fixed, but this hidden gem can usually be found beside the Nannup Caravan Park.
Of course, there’s more to Nannup than food, beer and shopping. Barrabup Pool, located a short ride up the Old Timberline Trail is a popular swimming spot. If the weather is on the chilly side, you can picnic in the shelter or follow the steel walkway above the flowing stream of St John’s Brook.
Flower enthusiasts tend to descend on the area during wildflower season, as Kondil Wildflower Park offers three looped walks close to town that promise cowslip orchids, adenanthos obovatus, tetratheca, chorizema and more. Out of season, more flowers can be found in the stunning gardens surrounding bed and breakfast Holberry House. The house itself is a quirky, 1980s recreation of a classic English manor house and its grounds are home to ducks and an ever-changing array of sculptures and artworks.
To take in more of the local flora, try trading four wheels for two. Tank 7 Bike Park is about five minutes’ drive from the high street and, once there, On Track MTB can provide you with mountain bike coaching that will take you up into the hills surrounding Nannup, affording extraordinary views of the local, rolling landscape and a chance to get up close — perhaps closer than you intended — to some greenery.
You needn’t be a trained athlete as On Track will supply you with e-bikes that take all the pain out of the uphill slog after the fun ride down. Likewise, there’s a range of tracks from beginner to daredevil, allowing you to get comfortable in the saddle before attempting some wild jumps off boulders. Green Mile is a good trail to start with, as it gives the rider a reasonably smooth ride all the way from the top to the bottom of the hill.
An e-bike tour along perilous trails might not be the most genteel way to get to know this part of the world, but it does seem unique. In other words — very Nannup.
