by Susan Gough Henly for Horizons Magazine
At first glance, it just seemed to be a pile of snow on the ice. But, as our Russian captain expertly manoeuvres the 6.45-tonne Akademik Ioffe research ship through the cracking sea ice, I finally see a 300kg adult male polar bear rolling
around like a gigantic puppy.
All 70 passengers are on deck, plus the 23 expedition staff and 41 Russian crew, to marvel at this Lord of the Arctic – the largest land carnivore on earth – as he lies with all four paws stretched towards us. We may be wrapped in microfiber, fleece and waterproof outerwear to stay warm but our polar bear specialist Derek Kyostia explains that polar bears are doing the opposite, sticking their paws in the air to cool off. The clickety-clack of camera shutters mixes with the cries of gulls swirling overhead. We’re on a nine-day Spitsbergen Encounter in the Norwegian Arctic with polar expedition specialist One Ocean Expeditions. The fleet comprises two Russian research vessels, which navigate the Norwegian and Canadian Arctic (and Canadian Eastern seaboard) as well as the Antarctic during the summer months.
Expert voyage
Having worked in the polar regions, with ice-strengthened ships originally designed for long-range polar research and now accommodating 96 guests, One Ocean Expeditions has developed an enviable reputation (Lloyds 1A rating).The academic credentials, experience and passion of the expedition team and the professional polar knowledge of the Russian crew ensure the cruise is educational and fun. This is not luxury cruising but an authentic expedition adventure, packed with life-enhancing experiences. Cabins range from suites with double beds and ensuite bathrooms to bunk bed triple rooms with shared facilities. The ship also has a small gym, plunge pool, hot tub, sauna and well-stocked library. Conveniently, outerwear jackets, pants and rubber boots, as well as binoculars and dry bags, are provided.
Wildlife encounters
Spitsbergen, which was discovered by the Dutch, is the largest island in the Svalbard archipelago – an area that is 60 per cent glaciated. “Our nine-day itinerary is great because you get a microcosm of everything...from Arctic wilderness and wildlife plus explorer history,” says expedition leader Boris Wise. “Two-thirds of the archipelago is protected and the distances between stops is much shorter than in the Canadian Arctic. It’s so far north, there is no indigenous culture. The unknown is guaranteed here and we have a great deal of flexibility about where we
go. You get a real sense of adventure on this trip.” We head off the nautical charts up to 82 degrees north, cruising along the edge of vast plateaus of sea ice that offer rarely seen vistas of phantasmagorical shapes and intense turquoise hues. We’re rewarded with five blue whales, the largest mammal in the world, which dive around the ship, and dozens of minke whales playing hide and seek among cracks in the pack ice. We enjoy nine polar bear sightings, one of a mother and cub, mum standing tall on her hind legs as she monitors an aggressive male in the distance. Polar bear mums-to-be have the longest fasting period on earth, according to our on-board experts, entering their dens in October and not emerging until March with a cub.
Adventure excursions
Every excursion is carefully planned but nimbly adjusted, depending on wildlife sightings and weather conditions. When the weather is bad, we watch for wildlife from the bridge and listen to entertaining lectures about birds and bears, whales and walruses. When the weather is good, we’re out on the deck, or in Zodiacs zipping across the face of kilometres long blue glaciers, or out in kayaks, or enjoying guided hikes in the pristine landscape, revelling in the 24 hours of continuous sunshine. The shore landings are as spectacular as they are diverse. Guides offer a choice of strenuous hikes, naturalist meanders and easy-going strolls so we can get within spitting distance of docile Arctic reindeer and elusive Arctic foxes, and marvel at noisy clouds of kittiwakes and little auks circling their nests tucked into the mountain. Just nine of us chose to sea-kayak, kitted out in dry suits and booties underneath our kayak skirts. Paddling through gaps in small icebergs, we watch tiny, aerodynamic Arctic terns divebombing for fish, and glide underneath rocky ledges where comic-faced puffins line up like diminutive clowns. Seals pop up in front of us, pale aqua ice chunks float by while the exquisite striated sky radiates above.
Mealtimes and more
At mealtimes, adventures are recapped and ravenous Arctic appetites are curbed on hearty fare such as burgers, chilli and fajitas, roast turkey with all the trimmings, grilled Norwegian salmon, steak and vegetarian risotto. Raspberry and peach cobbler, flowerless chocolate cake and lemon tart are dessert highlights. Plus there are surprises, like the barbecue dinner on deck with flowing mulled wine, seared tuna, pork on the spit, sweet corn and cauliflower cheese. Another day, birdwatching in the sunshine on a tranquil glacier-fringed lagoon, hot chocolate with optional Kahlua twist is delivered by Zodiac. The birdwatching, alone, is transformative. I had come to the Arctic for the big mammals but came away with a new admiration for the resilience and resourcefulness of its feathered inhabitants. For instance, the thick-billed murre, which creates vast breeding colonies on narrow ledges, produces a single cone-shaped aquamarine egg designed to roll in a tight circle if knocked. Surprisingly, most of these eggs don’t fall off, but at three weeks the chicks literally jump off the cliffs to learn to fish, fly and swim (their wings are designed to ‘fly’ underwater) with dad. As we sit and listen to such stories of survival and endurance during our after dinner fireside chats, I am grateful that those long months of Arctic darkness have parted just long enough for us fragile humans to savour a ring-side seat in such a sublime wilderness.
Fast facts
Getting there: Fly ‘one-stop’ from Perth to Oslo with Qatar Airways, Emirates and Thai Airways. Scandinavian Airlines flies from Oslo to Longyearbyen, where the cruise starts and ends. For Western Australians, the great appeal of the Norwegian Arctic is the ease of getting there, compared with the Canadian Arctic.
2018 & 2019 departures: One Ocean Expeditions offers multiple Spitzbergen Encounter departures in 2018 & 2019, including one a specialist photography symposium at no extra charge.
More benefits: Returning guests receive a 10%, automatic cabin upgrades, complimentary pre-voyage hotel night and $100 towards their on-board bar tab.
If you are interested in learning more about way to travel to the Arctic, speak to one of our travel consultants.
